Posts
Hi Roy
Many thanks for describing the High value recess printed stamps (25/02/07). Can you explain how do I tell the difference between Contractors paper and Post office paper ? I am also confused / having trouble sorting the 50p values printed on Phosphor Coated Paper. Also if possible more information would be helpfull regarding the £1 values and cross hatch design.
I hope you can help.
Hi James .
Thanks for your your email. My internet post bag is getting larger by the day, at least is shows that some people are reading this blog. Please continue to do so and recommend it to your fellow collectors, in return I will do my best to answer these questions.
There is no easy way to describe these issues in laymans terms. It is recommended when separating these issues to use a short wave Ultra Violet light for phosphors and a long wave for papers. (UV lamps are described in an earlier post)
Post Office papers / Contractors Papers
( 17/06/70 ) when viewed under the light this is comparatively dull in the margins compared to the Brightness of (Bradbury Contractors Paper) 30/11/73. If in doubt use a pre decimal 2/6, 5/- or 10/- value to compare, these are on dull paper.
PCP
The 10p value only exists on phosphorescent dull Post Office paper. The use of this paper was due to a continued experiments with AOP to provide information to the boffins as to what weather conditions would place upon the phosphor when stamps were printed in recess.
All over Phosphor paper or Phosphor Coated paper as it has come to be known, has an all over after glow under short wave UV light. Use the 10p value as a base template to compare with the 50p values on PCP. Again this 50p was printed on dull Post Office paper 01/2/73.
As with the 10p value, the AOP stamp has an all over after glow under short wave UV light. This was printed on the residue of paper left from the 10p printing. Earlier 50p values were on normal (dull) Post office paper without phosphor or an after glow.
20p , and later printings of the decimal £1 values can be found on both contactators and post office paper without a phosphor coating.
Early printing of the £1.00 value with the original pre decimal £ sign can only be found on Post office paper. Later ( FIRST) printings (1970) decimal issue with the old type £1 sign were printed on new plates, these were made up from the same master die , but the settings changed to a single pane of 100 (10 x 10 ) in place of the original plates of 4 panes of 40 ( 8 x 5 ).
To recognise single copies of the decimal issue from pre decimal one must use a high power magnifier or microscope and study the background shading. Top left and bottom right corners are the best to study and compare. If in doubt again compare the new £1 script under magnification with a 2/6, 5/-, or 10/- value.
The pre decimal print has thicker horizontal lines of shading and the none engraved area to the eye looks like square white patches, the decimal printing has thicker horizontal lines of shading and the none engraved area shows up as white vertical boxes.
If you are still unsure, about the £1 differences, purchase a plate block, look for plate 3, these are distinquishable from plate 3 of the pre decimal printing in the fact the decimal printings show part of the TOTAL SHEET VALUE IN THE MARGIN opposite R9/10.
I hope this helps you in your quest to sort and understand these issues more.
Wednesday, 28 February 2007
Tuesday, 27 February 2007
Rare Machins
The Millennium Machin
Printed by Walsall Security Printers, this is an interesting exhibition piece showing Millennium Machins in the form of a Cylinder block of 8 ( 2 x 4) with the numbers W2 W2 in the selvedge.
All indications point to the fact that the source of the block is from un-cut part of the original primary sheet.
No official post office counter sheet stamps were printed by Walsall or Questa (only De La Rue printed Millennium Machins in counter sheet form for the Royal Mail). Questa and Walsall did however print Millennium stamps intended for use only in Retail booklets in multples of ten. *
The stamps :
The left phosphor band is 9mm wide overlapping into the sevedge by 4. 5 mm the remainder of the bands are also 9mm wide stretching across the stamps forming 2 x 4.5 mm side bars on each stamp. This information indicates that this block is from the top right of the primary sheet.
The left side of the primary sheet had 6.5mm wide phosphor bands to the left, 2 mm overlapping in the margins, and 9mm, stretching across the remainder of stamps forming the 2 x 4. 5 mm side bars.
This perforation type is known as AP4 (R) Rugby ball type ellipse, (one ellipse at the left and one at the right) they are approx 3 prforations in length, set two perforations up from the bottom of the stamps).
The perforation is the norm for Walsall booklet x 10 Machins which is 14.75 x 14.
You will notice that the cylinder number (W2 ) appear in row 2 and row 4 of the block. On normal De La Rue post Office counter sheets the cylinder numbers only appear once.
There is no phosphor cylinder number shown. Paper type is OFNP with PVA lay flat gum and overprined with DG A2B 2 phosphor bands which has an wave after-glow.
The direction of the print is inverted ( as are booklet panes). The margin is perforated through the top and bottom edges of every 2nd row and there is a single extension hole in the selvedge in the alternative (other) rows.
Where the complete extension of the perforations exist through the margin, this is usually the tear or cut line. Indicating that this is the format that the single panes of 10 must have before they are inserted into booklets.
Conclusions:
With this information above, all indications confirm that this is a genuine part of a un- cut primary sheet with two part booklet panes of 4 stamps showing a double cylinder number.
The GB DSB SC ( now MBPC ) code number for the individual panes of ten is DP301.
Booklets panes with W2 cylinders were printed in the latter period of the Millennium year 2000AD. W1 cylinders were used prior to this, being in use during the early months of the issue.
* Note: Panes of reduced size ( 8 Machin stamps) were used in mixed Millennium booklets of ten containing two different panes, the fist being a seperate pane of two 1st class Millennum special issue stamps ( also printed by Walsall ) .However the definitive Machin panes were the same pane as the one described above (DP301). Two stamps at the right of the pane were removed at the printers during the make up of the booklets, reducing the Millennium definitive panes to eight.
Printed by Walsall Security Printers, this is an interesting exhibition piece showing Millennium Machins in the form of a Cylinder block of 8 ( 2 x 4) with the numbers W2 W2 in the selvedge.
All indications point to the fact that the source of the block is from un-cut part of the original primary sheet.
No official post office counter sheet stamps were printed by Walsall or Questa (only De La Rue printed Millennium Machins in counter sheet form for the Royal Mail). Questa and Walsall did however print Millennium stamps intended for use only in Retail booklets in multples of ten. *
The stamps :
The left phosphor band is 9mm wide overlapping into the sevedge by 4. 5 mm the remainder of the bands are also 9mm wide stretching across the stamps forming 2 x 4.5 mm side bars on each stamp. This information indicates that this block is from the top right of the primary sheet.
The left side of the primary sheet had 6.5mm wide phosphor bands to the left, 2 mm overlapping in the margins, and 9mm, stretching across the remainder of stamps forming the 2 x 4. 5 mm side bars.
This perforation type is known as AP4 (R) Rugby ball type ellipse, (one ellipse at the left and one at the right) they are approx 3 prforations in length, set two perforations up from the bottom of the stamps).The perforation is the norm for Walsall booklet x 10 Machins which is 14.75 x 14.
You will notice that the cylinder number (W2 ) appear in row 2 and row 4 of the block. On normal De La Rue post Office counter sheets the cylinder numbers only appear once.
There is no phosphor cylinder number shown. Paper type is OFNP with PVA lay flat gum and overprined with DG A2B 2 phosphor bands which has an wave after-glow.
The direction of the print is inverted ( as are booklet panes). The margin is perforated through the top and bottom edges of every 2nd row and there is a single extension hole in the selvedge in the alternative (other) rows.
Where the complete extension of the perforations exist through the margin, this is usually the tear or cut line. Indicating that this is the format that the single panes of 10 must have before they are inserted into booklets.
Conclusions:
With this information above, all indications confirm that this is a genuine part of a un- cut primary sheet with two part booklet panes of 4 stamps showing a double cylinder number.
The GB DSB SC ( now MBPC ) code number for the individual panes of ten is DP301.
Booklets panes with W2 cylinders were printed in the latter period of the Millennium year 2000AD. W1 cylinders were used prior to this, being in use during the early months of the issue.
* Note: Panes of reduced size ( 8 Machin stamps) were used in mixed Millennium booklets of ten containing two different panes, the fist being a seperate pane of two 1st class Millennum special issue stamps ( also printed by Walsall ) .However the definitive Machin panes were the same pane as the one described above (DP301). Two stamps at the right of the pane were removed at the printers during the make up of the booklets, reducing the Millennium definitive panes to eight.
Sunday, 25 February 2007
High Values Types and Values
Bradbury and Wilkinson were the printers of the first Machin high values in 1969, these were the recess printed pre decimal stamps. The set consisted of 4 values , 2/6d , 5/- , 10/- , and £1. None of the stamps had phosphor bands. the pre decimal issues are shown below.
The decimal series followed in 1970 (in fact issued 3 or 4 months before decimalisation).
Similar in design but but with 10p, 20p, 50, and £1 values.
The 10p was printed on phosphor Coated Paper, so were some of the 50p values.
These were also printed on two types of paper, one dull, one bright.
Due to shortages of the original papers the printers used their own paper, this is termed in catalogues contractors paper, the original refered to as post office paper.
The layout of the sheets also changed, on the decimal issues this gave rise to a variant of the one pound value. The first printings of the £1 value had thick horizontal lines of shading, and the reprint had vertical lines, known to specialists as cross hatch of the printing design, the difference in the printing layout and finish can only be seen with a good magnifying glass.
This variant should be checked on the pre decimal script £1 value as there are two distinct types.
In 1972 the value tablet on the £1 value was also changed from a script type to a more modern
block type (see picture left to compare) which gives a 3rd variant.
During 1977 things started to get exciting in the stamp world, a brand new set of high value stamps were introduced, printed in photogravure. These were of a large vertical format similar to the commemoratives of the day. They were also available in gutter pairs, which was also a first for stamps of high value. There are several values to collect from this series ranging from £1 to £5.
High values then reverted to the castles stamps for a short time (these were not Machins).
Small format :
After the castles issues of which there were several printings, high values reverted back to the Machin design, to that of the small format of today, the reason for the change , quote "the post office needed to bring in some sort of uniformity in the size". Enschede of the Ntherlands were the chosen printers.
This issue of high value Machins then changed again dramatically they were still in the small format but were re-engraved and more security features were added. These were as stated were printed by Enschede, but then the contract reverted to De la Rue. These are the current HV stamps on sale at this time.
The cut off point for high value stamps changed in 2003 to that of £1.50p. All stamps below this value are now classed as a normal low value, which makes for confusion to the layman as this includes the previous £1.00 issued before hand.
A new £1 Ruby Machin is to be issued in June 2007 to celebrate the 40th anniversary of the Machin design. This will not be classed as a high value.
The decimal series followed in 1970 (in fact issued 3 or 4 months before decimalisation).Similar in design but but with 10p, 20p, 50, and £1 values.
The 10p was printed on phosphor Coated Paper, so were some of the 50p values.
These were also printed on two types of paper, one dull, one bright.
Due to shortages of the original papers the printers used their own paper, this is termed in catalogues contractors paper, the original refered to as post office paper.
The layout of the sheets also changed, on the decimal issues this gave rise to a variant of the one pound value. The first printings of the £1 value had thick horizontal lines of shading, and the reprint had vertical lines, known to specialists as cross hatch of the printing design, the difference in the printing layout and finish can only be seen with a good magnifying glass.
This variant should be checked on the pre decimal script £1 value as there are two distinct types.
In 1972 the value tablet on the £1 value was also changed from a script type to a more modern
block type (see picture left to compare) which gives a 3rd variant.
During 1977 things started to get exciting in the stamp world, a brand new set of high value stamps were introduced, printed in photogravure. These were of a large vertical format similar to the commemoratives of the day. They were also available in gutter pairs, which was also a first for stamps of high value. There are several values to collect from this series ranging from £1 to £5.
High values then reverted to the castles stamps for a short time (these were not Machins).
Small format :
After the castles issues of which there were several printings, high values reverted back to the Machin design, to that of the small format of today, the reason for the change , quote "the post office needed to bring in some sort of uniformity in the size". Enschede of the Ntherlands were the chosen printers.
This issue of high value Machins then changed again dramatically they were still in the small format but were re-engraved and more security features were added. These were as stated were printed by Enschede, but then the contract reverted to De la Rue. These are the current HV stamps on sale at this time.
The cut off point for high value stamps changed in 2003 to that of £1.50p. All stamps below this value are now classed as a normal low value, which makes for confusion to the layman as this includes the previous £1.00 issued before hand.
A new £1 Ruby Machin is to be issued in June 2007 to celebrate the 40th anniversary of the Machin design. This will not be classed as a high value.
Wednesday, 21 February 2007
Quality or Quantity
Michael Dodd, who is the Blog Master for the The Internet Philatelic Dealers Association (IPDA) and CDD Stamps has written that he is concerned about the amount of rubbish used stamps that are being touted or sold to collectors on the internet via websites and auction houses.
The object of this piece is to state I fully agree with him. His mini campaign to educate collectors is slowly paying off, less professional people are listing / selling but there could be many more who would get the message if more collectors refused to buy this rubbish. It would also be much better for the hobby in the long run.
I can understand it, when a collector is sorting through material that he or she has received as a free gift, if a stamp is not quite collectible and they have a space , it could do as as a stop gap until a better copy comes their way, but to actually go out buy this type of material is something I can not comprehend. Why buy heavy canceled stamps, when you can pick up a kilo of the stuff for a £1.00 at your local stamps shop?
I do not collect used stamps my self, ( I have in the past ) but do sell the odd used selection if I feel they are suitable for collecting, my motto is, if its not good enough for me I will not sell it to anyone else, but I will dump it in the bin or give it away with kilo ware. Stamps that are cancelled medium to heavy or has a crease or missing perf I will also give away for free, even if it (they) are catalogued at £200.
Below are some examples of what to collect and what not to collect. The stamps on the right are heavily cancelled and would not be selected to take pride and place in my album, the stamps on the left are clean, CDS lightly stamped and would be suitable for a general used collection.
The object of this piece is to state I fully agree with him. His mini campaign to educate collectors is slowly paying off, less professional people are listing / selling but there could be many more who would get the message if more collectors refused to buy this rubbish. It would also be much better for the hobby in the long run.
I can understand it, when a collector is sorting through material that he or she has received as a free gift, if a stamp is not quite collectible and they have a space , it could do as as a stop gap until a better copy comes their way, but to actually go out buy this type of material is something I can not comprehend. Why buy heavy canceled stamps, when you can pick up a kilo of the stuff for a £1.00 at your local stamps shop?
I do not collect used stamps my self, ( I have in the past ) but do sell the odd used selection if I feel they are suitable for collecting, my motto is, if its not good enough for me I will not sell it to anyone else, but I will dump it in the bin or give it away with kilo ware. Stamps that are cancelled medium to heavy or has a crease or missing perf I will also give away for free, even if it (they) are catalogued at £200.
Below are some examples of what to collect and what not to collect. The stamps on the right are heavily cancelled and would not be selected to take pride and place in my album, the stamps on the left are clean, CDS lightly stamped and would be suitable for a general used collection.
I have to admit I am probably more fussy than most and would even soak the ones on the left off the backing paper and get rid of any that have short o
r damaged 
perfs.
Comparing the two lots I know what would look better displayed in an album. So take advice and be over selective.
When choosing a dealer, or eBay seller pick one that is a member of a philatelic dealers association. Preferably one that is also a member of the IPDA.
I know from being a member my self ( part time stamp dealer), you can be assured thet as a member they are trading under a code of ethics that will look after your interests as a collector first and foremost and not their own.
It also makes better business sense to the seller, if you the customer are happy, they as a seller will be happier in terms of possible repeat sales to them.
Thanks Michael for bringing this subject to peoples attention, keep up the good fight. You have my full support.
Monday, 19 February 2007
Coils On Cover
I have already written about coils before, so to recap I will just give you the basics of what they are.
Stamp Coils were dispensed via a stamp machine to the customer in strips pro rata of 4 or 5 depending on the face value and denomination of coil and also the coin (s) inserted.
These started to prove to be very popular with collectors and due to the demand, they were eventually also made available from Philatelic counters.
Some multi value coils were provided by Royal Mail for special customers, these were affixed to a card with wax, and used as return postage for promotions.
IE: Readers Digest, Drive Magazine and Marshal Ward are three of those known. These are known to collectors as Readers Digest Coil Strips.
As these strips were getting popular, Royal Mail issued some first day of issue covers for collectors of multiple stamps .
To be honest I do not normally collect covers, but I managed to pick these up (see pic above) at a local shop last week, they sort of jumped out at me as appealing, something a bit different from the norm.
Not expensive either at just £1.00 each. It was the other £45.00 I spent on booklets and bits of tat that hit my pocket.
I keep saying to myself, "cut down on the spending, get rid of some stuff", but when one has the stamp bug, its like a drug, something deep within the brain takes over and I forget all about budgeting.
I guess if you are a collector also, you will know exactly what I am on about.
Stamp Coils were dispensed via a stamp machine to the customer in strips pro rata of 4 or 5 depending on the face value and denomination of coil and also the coin (s) inserted.
These started to prove to be very popular with collectors and due to the demand, they were eventually also made available from Philatelic counters.
Some multi value coils were provided by Royal Mail for special customers, these were affixed to a card with wax, and used as return postage for promotions.
IE: Readers Digest, Drive Magazine and Marshal Ward are three of those known. These are known to collectors as Readers Digest Coil Strips.
As these strips were getting popular, Royal Mail issued some first day of issue covers for collectors of multiple stamps .
To be honest I do not normally collect covers, but I managed to pick these up (see pic above) at a local shop last week, they sort of jumped out at me as appealing, something a bit different from the norm.
Not expensive either at just £1.00 each. It was the other £45.00 I spent on booklets and bits of tat that hit my pocket.
I keep saying to myself, "cut down on the spending, get rid of some stuff", but when one has the stamp bug, its like a drug, something deep within the brain takes over and I forget all about budgeting.
I guess if you are a collector also, you will know exactly what I am on about.
Building A Web Site
A letter from Mike Gardner
Dear Roy,
I have visited your Machins Made Easy website and would like to congratulate you on the simplistic manner in which you put your message across, I have found it an invaluable source of information.
I have tried in the past to build my own site with AWYSIWYG program. I would like to ask if you have any web building tips that I can use?
Mike there is no easy way to build a website, but I can reproduce an article I wrote for the IPDA news page which may give you some information.
e-Business Made Easy
For a start let me just say , I am no expert in web design, but have built a few and learned from my mistakes as I have gone along.
Everyone I know wants their web site to look its best, it no matter if it is a simple personal home page or a massive online shop selling all and sundry.
Part one of this (our) simple guide will help you avoid the pitfalls of disaster and hopefully allow you to build a successful web site. Its a dilemma for most just to know how or where to start with web site design. Most just chuck a package full of things on to a page and hope for the best. This throw it together approach can work with a bit of luck, but 9 times from 10 it ends in tears.
Anyone who knows the basics of computers can put a site together, however there are plenty of handy tips you can use to avoid 90% of the pitfalls.
Rule 1/ Where to start
The main thing to consider when planning a home page is "what do I want my site to do"? If you have an idea of what you want your visitors to see, then this is half the battle.
Try to resist just adding content to your pages just co,s you can. In my experience people do not want to wade through tons of gimmicks or irrelevant information when they land on your page.
If you have thought of a theme for your site then you have already jumped the first fence, once you have the concept all you have to do is spice up the page to interest them. We can captivate them, later.
Some images and a bit of text set out in a tidy manner works wanders. Nothing has to be complicated to be a success. Besides, why make things harder for your self?.
In terms of complexity, there are tons of ideas you can experiment with, but wait until you have actually put a page together. Remember we can always add at a later date.
The knack of adding Frames, image maps, sound and animation are all within most peoples grasp once they have mastered the basics. Just keep it nice and simple to start. Trying the old adage running before you can walk will result in a hit counter that stays static.
My philosophy has always been "Less is More". I have noticed that the best sites are those that are not overloaded with to much content. A simple design idea and pages that are easy to navigate are the sort of things that persuade people to return.
It is to easy to pack pages with with lots of tricks and whistles, but minimization has always been found to be the most successful when it comes to web design.
If you contemplate having a busy site with lots of information, you must consider breaking it down in to digestible chunks, the only way to do this is by adding more pages. The same applies,do not Overcrowd your pages, some of the worst sites are those that seem so chaotic they make the Freeway in rush hour seem a more tranquil choice of venue.
I must stress this, avoid the temptation to overcrowd your pages. Visitors only skim read anyway, so its pointless writing reams of text, they will not be bothered to read it. This is most important on your index page (home page) as this is the first port of call for your visitors. Ease them in gradually. Subtle will grab them, a one word one quote and a couple of pictures leave a more lasting impression. It also wants them to investigate further.
Rule 2/ What’s the Plan?
Before you even start to play around with programs, do not be afraid to sit down with a pencil and paper, draw a rough sketch of your ideas. This will pay you in the long run , the reason is, it enables one to decide on a workable format. Draw your plan and spread the consent over a few pages, when you add the content to the site it will automatically be less cluttered than if you jumped straight into computer design mode. You will find the separate pages linked together will allow your visitors easier access and make the site simple to navigate.
So I'm talking rubbish! Let me convince you with a simple argument. If you are having a house built from scratch, you would not let the person constructing it, build, or even lay a brick if he did not have some sort of plan. Do not add anything until you have a firm idea of where your rooms are going to be and what they are going to hold, you must also have an hallway (or link way) so people can get from one room to another.
This forward planning stage is more important on web sites that will have lots of pages, but even a site with 2 or 3 pages needs a plan, you will be surprised on how much time you save if you have a plan, so rule two is , get it down on paper first.
Rule 3/ Optimize your Graphics
Before you load pictures to your site, play around with them in your image editor until you feel they are the right size for the page, not to big, not to small. If you are not sure write down the size that you think will suit. E-commerce sites contain a lot of images so it will pay to get the sizes right from the off, compress them as much as you can, but do not over do it.
Adding massive pics will mean your visitors will have to wait an age for your web site to load, remember not everyone at this time has broadband. If you have a gallery of pictures turn them into thumbnails, which when clicked take the visitor to a bigger version. This may seem like a lot of work, but it will be worth it in the end just to grab that quicker download time. Rule three size does matter.
Rule 4/ Pick your Text
OK, it (your site) is only a guide to the boy scouts dinner party, but you need to pick your text to make sure everything is explained concisely. You do not need to use plain English, but by adding short lines of plain understandable text, your pages will take on a little more appeal. The scouts will also get their dinner.
See I told you it pays to plan! Using your bit of paper at this stage you have already worked out how much text to add to the page.
As I have already stated do not overcrowd the page with to many lines of text, visitors will just hit the back button. No one likes going to a home page to find they have to scroll down through a mountain of text. Point them in the direction of page 2. In other words rule 4 in laymen’s terms is spread your content.
Rule 5/Colours
There is nothing wrong with using a background colour on your page or an image come to that, but if you do make sure its low key. Bright yellow with purple text is not the way forward, choose a subtler tone and you will notice the immediate change, you and your visitors will also find the text is easier to read. Its more of a case of not using anything that will give your visitors eye strain. Back to our house designer. My God, the builder has painted the house neon purple, now I have no hallway, a toilet in my living room and the decor has given you a headache to boot.
When deciding on a colour scheme, avoid anything to bright , or to dark. The bulk of web designers stick to a old fashioned tried and tested method of black on white. The old saying again . "Less is More".
Rule 6/ What’s Hot?
The easiest method of seeing what’s hot is to browse the web, see what the others are doing. Look at a cross section of sites from humble home pages through to corporate holdings. Make notes of anything that you like. If you see a natty drop down menu and think "Oh id like some of that", open up the source code. This will reveal how it was done.
Java script used to be considered the "dogs what-sits". unfortunately this type of script has lost its appeal of late. Designers have come to realise that adding lots of clever dick code was pointless. A currency converter that helps your customers is a different kettle of fish. We can add these later.
So there we have it- simple handy tips to building a better site, do not consider this as a definitive guide though, web site design is a subjective thing and you may have your own ideas that you may want to experiment with. Just remember to enjoy the experience.
If you sit in front of your screen for weeks and end up with your head in your hands each night, then you are trying to hard. Have a rest, and try something a bit simpler.
Do not be put off by design snobbery, there are plenty of people who will tear your work to shreds, if you give them the chance. If they do , don’t let this deter you, learn from mistakes....OK this is where I end the lesson, but before I do finish , repeat this 3 times......LESS IS MORE.....LESS IS MORE......LESS IS MORE.
Dear Roy,
I have visited your Machins Made Easy website and would like to congratulate you on the simplistic manner in which you put your message across, I have found it an invaluable source of information.
I have tried in the past to build my own site with AWYSIWYG program. I would like to ask if you have any web building tips that I can use?
Mike there is no easy way to build a website, but I can reproduce an article I wrote for the IPDA news page which may give you some information.
e-Business Made Easy
For a start let me just say , I am no expert in web design, but have built a few and learned from my mistakes as I have gone along.
Everyone I know wants their web site to look its best, it no matter if it is a simple personal home page or a massive online shop selling all and sundry.
Part one of this (our) simple guide will help you avoid the pitfalls of disaster and hopefully allow you to build a successful web site. Its a dilemma for most just to know how or where to start with web site design. Most just chuck a package full of things on to a page and hope for the best. This throw it together approach can work with a bit of luck, but 9 times from 10 it ends in tears.
Anyone who knows the basics of computers can put a site together, however there are plenty of handy tips you can use to avoid 90% of the pitfalls.
Rule 1/ Where to start
The main thing to consider when planning a home page is "what do I want my site to do"? If you have an idea of what you want your visitors to see, then this is half the battle.
Try to resist just adding content to your pages just co,s you can. In my experience people do not want to wade through tons of gimmicks or irrelevant information when they land on your page.
If you have thought of a theme for your site then you have already jumped the first fence, once you have the concept all you have to do is spice up the page to interest them. We can captivate them, later.
Some images and a bit of text set out in a tidy manner works wanders. Nothing has to be complicated to be a success. Besides, why make things harder for your self?.
In terms of complexity, there are tons of ideas you can experiment with, but wait until you have actually put a page together. Remember we can always add at a later date.
The knack of adding Frames, image maps, sound and animation are all within most peoples grasp once they have mastered the basics. Just keep it nice and simple to start. Trying the old adage running before you can walk will result in a hit counter that stays static.
My philosophy has always been "Less is More". I have noticed that the best sites are those that are not overloaded with to much content. A simple design idea and pages that are easy to navigate are the sort of things that persuade people to return.
It is to easy to pack pages with with lots of tricks and whistles, but minimization has always been found to be the most successful when it comes to web design.
If you contemplate having a busy site with lots of information, you must consider breaking it down in to digestible chunks, the only way to do this is by adding more pages. The same applies,do not Overcrowd your pages, some of the worst sites are those that seem so chaotic they make the Freeway in rush hour seem a more tranquil choice of venue.
I must stress this, avoid the temptation to overcrowd your pages. Visitors only skim read anyway, so its pointless writing reams of text, they will not be bothered to read it. This is most important on your index page (home page) as this is the first port of call for your visitors. Ease them in gradually. Subtle will grab them, a one word one quote and a couple of pictures leave a more lasting impression. It also wants them to investigate further.
Rule 2/ What’s the Plan?
Before you even start to play around with programs, do not be afraid to sit down with a pencil and paper, draw a rough sketch of your ideas. This will pay you in the long run , the reason is, it enables one to decide on a workable format. Draw your plan and spread the consent over a few pages, when you add the content to the site it will automatically be less cluttered than if you jumped straight into computer design mode. You will find the separate pages linked together will allow your visitors easier access and make the site simple to navigate.
So I'm talking rubbish! Let me convince you with a simple argument. If you are having a house built from scratch, you would not let the person constructing it, build, or even lay a brick if he did not have some sort of plan. Do not add anything until you have a firm idea of where your rooms are going to be and what they are going to hold, you must also have an hallway (or link way) so people can get from one room to another.
This forward planning stage is more important on web sites that will have lots of pages, but even a site with 2 or 3 pages needs a plan, you will be surprised on how much time you save if you have a plan, so rule two is , get it down on paper first.
Rule 3/ Optimize your Graphics
Before you load pictures to your site, play around with them in your image editor until you feel they are the right size for the page, not to big, not to small. If you are not sure write down the size that you think will suit. E-commerce sites contain a lot of images so it will pay to get the sizes right from the off, compress them as much as you can, but do not over do it.
Adding massive pics will mean your visitors will have to wait an age for your web site to load, remember not everyone at this time has broadband. If you have a gallery of pictures turn them into thumbnails, which when clicked take the visitor to a bigger version. This may seem like a lot of work, but it will be worth it in the end just to grab that quicker download time. Rule three size does matter.
Rule 4/ Pick your Text
OK, it (your site) is only a guide to the boy scouts dinner party, but you need to pick your text to make sure everything is explained concisely. You do not need to use plain English, but by adding short lines of plain understandable text, your pages will take on a little more appeal. The scouts will also get their dinner.
See I told you it pays to plan! Using your bit of paper at this stage you have already worked out how much text to add to the page.
As I have already stated do not overcrowd the page with to many lines of text, visitors will just hit the back button. No one likes going to a home page to find they have to scroll down through a mountain of text. Point them in the direction of page 2. In other words rule 4 in laymen’s terms is spread your content.
Rule 5/Colours
There is nothing wrong with using a background colour on your page or an image come to that, but if you do make sure its low key. Bright yellow with purple text is not the way forward, choose a subtler tone and you will notice the immediate change, you and your visitors will also find the text is easier to read. Its more of a case of not using anything that will give your visitors eye strain. Back to our house designer. My God, the builder has painted the house neon purple, now I have no hallway, a toilet in my living room and the decor has given you a headache to boot.
When deciding on a colour scheme, avoid anything to bright , or to dark. The bulk of web designers stick to a old fashioned tried and tested method of black on white. The old saying again . "Less is More".
Rule 6/ What’s Hot?
The easiest method of seeing what’s hot is to browse the web, see what the others are doing. Look at a cross section of sites from humble home pages through to corporate holdings. Make notes of anything that you like. If you see a natty drop down menu and think "Oh id like some of that", open up the source code. This will reveal how it was done.
Java script used to be considered the "dogs what-sits". unfortunately this type of script has lost its appeal of late. Designers have come to realise that adding lots of clever dick code was pointless. A currency converter that helps your customers is a different kettle of fish. We can add these later.
So there we have it- simple handy tips to building a better site, do not consider this as a definitive guide though, web site design is a subjective thing and you may have your own ideas that you may want to experiment with. Just remember to enjoy the experience.
If you sit in front of your screen for weeks and end up with your head in your hands each night, then you are trying to hard. Have a rest, and try something a bit simpler.
Do not be put off by design snobbery, there are plenty of people who will tear your work to shreds, if you give them the chance. If they do , don’t let this deter you, learn from mistakes....OK this is where I end the lesson, but before I do finish , repeat this 3 times......LESS IS MORE.....LESS IS MORE......LESS IS MORE.
Saturday, 17 February 2007
Keeping Them Peeled
I often refer to an old saying of mine "Keep em Peeled".
Well by doing so, this is an example of what one can find amongst a batch of stamps that may look normal to the untrained eye.
The fault or flaw on these panes increase the value from 70p to £8.00 - £10.00
Welsh Farmhouse 10p booklets Issued 26/10/1978
I have just re discovered , whilst packing away a few bits and pieces, several 10p booklets (7 in total) where the 1p shows a slight error, or flaw in the form of a missing serif at the tail of the P in the value tablet on one of the 1p stamps that make up the pane.
Some booklets (panes) are perforated with only one hole
in the selvedge (margin) above the top line instead of going all the way through. Known to specialists as Perf Type P.
Well by doing so, this is an example of what one can find amongst a batch of stamps that may look normal to the untrained eye.
The fault or flaw on these panes increase the value from 70p to £8.00 - £10.00
Welsh Farmhouse 10p booklets Issued 26/10/1978
I have just re discovered , whilst packing away a few bits and pieces, several 10p booklets (7 in total) where the 1p shows a slight error, or flaw in the form of a missing serif at the tail of the P in the value tablet on one of the 1p stamps that make up the pane.This is a known flaw, pane cat no UMFB7h in SG Specialised Vol 4. I have been informed that there are another 9 flaws listed plus "phosphor omitted".
Another booklet ( 6 copies) I have shows a re touch in the form of a scar on the Queens neck on the 7p stamp. I may show you this variety at a later date.
To continue with the pane in question.
The single 1p value (crimson) stamp which is set below the label, also has a short centre band at the top (as do all centre bands below the label )
Some booklets (panes) are perforated with only one hole
in the selvedge (margin) above the top line instead of going all the way through. Known to specialists as Perf Type P.This variety (booklet pane shown above) comes from what we refer to as EEH extra exention hole which is only one hole in the selvedge type.
If you collect specialised single Machins ( or booklets ) then this is a stamp that should be in your collection.
Would you like a copy? If so, I am offering in conjuntion with Stamps of Great Britain 7 booklets to the first people who request them. There are still 4 booklets available.
Read the thread here http://groups.msn.com/StampsofGreatBritain/general.msnw
Tuesday, 13 February 2007
Phosphor Bands
Following on from the last posting where I described UV Lamps, it seem only right to continue with some information on the phosphors that can be detected. This information has been taken from text originally written on my website.
Phosphor Bands:
These can be seen with the naked eye when viewed flat and held up to the light at eye level.
They were first introduced during the 1950s on the Wilding series.
When viewed under a ultra violet light, either short wave for old phosphor or long wave for issues after 1993. They give off various degrees of fluorescence and phosphorescence (afterglow).
Old phosphor : B
Most early Machins have this type of phosphor they consisted of either a centre band, two side bands, or a single side band. These were either green or blue in colour.
This phosphor had a additive called cartax mixed with the phosphor ink. This in turn allowed the stamps to fluoresce a yellow green colour when viewed under long wave ultra violet light. This is also termed AY phosphor by some specialist groups.
Early printings of this type were the 18p printed by Enschede in 1991. Several trials were carried out with various amounts of phosphor ink overprinted, this in turn resulted in several variations of yellow colour in the fluorescence. All these variations are catalogued and are all collectable.
If you are interested I have a few Enschede cylinder blocks of 6 (2 x 3) with Yellow phosphor bands ( no varnish) surplus to requirements, several values, dot and no dot panes are for sale at
discount prices. Email me for more information. gbmachins@lineone.net
D & D2 Phosphor (Long wave afterglow or Novaglow)
A trial printing D2 was released, this was termed nova glow by the printers in 1994 on the trial run of 38p stamps, again printed by Enschede. These stamps had a blue or light violet afterglow, this can be detected when viewed in a dark room under a long wave UV lamp, switch off the light after a few seconds for the desired effect. D phosphor was a intermediate blue phosphor without the afterglow.
Some of the earlier stamps included a layer of varnish under the phosphor, this was either 2 mm or 4 mm wide ( more about varnish later ).
Phosphor Bands:
These can be seen with the naked eye when viewed flat and held up to the light at eye level.
They were first introduced during the 1950s on the Wilding series.
When viewed under a ultra violet light, either short wave for old phosphor or long wave for issues after 1993. They give off various degrees of fluorescence and phosphorescence (afterglow).
Old phosphor : B
Most early Machins have this type of phosphor they consisted of either a centre band, two side bands, or a single side band. These were either green or blue in colour.
New Phosphor : A
A phosphor was brought into use in the mid 1980s, it is a variation of the phosphor used on the AOP paper issues (see phosphor coated paper ). The bands on these stamps fluoresce a little fainter than the previous printings, and are violet in colour.
C Phosphor :
This phosphor had a additive called cartax mixed with the phosphor ink. This in turn allowed the stamps to fluoresce a yellow green colour when viewed under long wave ultra violet light. This is also termed AY phosphor by some specialist groups.Early printings of this type were the 18p printed by Enschede in 1991. Several trials were carried out with various amounts of phosphor ink overprinted, this in turn resulted in several variations of yellow colour in the fluorescence. All these variations are catalogued and are all collectable.
If you are interested I have a few Enschede cylinder blocks of 6 (2 x 3) with Yellow phosphor bands ( no varnish) surplus to requirements, several values, dot and no dot panes are for sale at
discount prices. Email me for more information. gbmachins@lineone.net
D & D2 Phosphor (Long wave afterglow or Novaglow)
A trial printing D2 was released, this was termed nova glow by the printers in 1994 on the trial run of 38p stamps, again printed by Enschede. These stamps had a blue or light violet afterglow, this can be detected when viewed in a dark room under a long wave UV lamp, switch off the light after a few seconds for the desired effect. D phosphor was a intermediate blue phosphor without the afterglow.Some of the earlier stamps included a layer of varnish under the phosphor, this was either 2 mm or 4 mm wide ( more about varnish later ).
Stamps with a D (blue fluorescence) have since been issued by all printers and now seems to be the norm on all current issues including Self adhesives. Questa, recent De La Rue stamps and other certain printings have the D2 aftergow.
Width and length of Phosphors :
As mentioned above all stamps of this type have either one or two bands running vertical from top to bottom of the perforations. Some have extra bands or no bands these were printed in error, and are highly collectable.
First class stamps printed in sheets normally have 9 mm when split reverting into two 4.5 mm bands these are set each side of the stamp. The 10 mm 10p stamp printed on the Chambon Press a exception to the rule having two 5 mm bands. Booklet stamps can also found to contain 8 mm & 4 mm bands.
Second class stamps from sheets have one 4.5 mm centre band, or on more recent issues a 4 mm band. This can also be off-set of centre.
Varnish under the bands
As mentioned above, some of the stamps printed by Enschede have a varnish strip printed under the phosphor ink. These were applied to eradicate problems, with the paper being to absorbent, this in turn caused the phosphor to have a weak signal. Two widths of varnish were tried first a 4 mm varnish then later a 2 mm version. Both varieties are collectables although the 2 mm type is hard to distinguish as the layer tends to correspond with the inter stamp margins.
To view these varnished bands they must be held up to the at a slight angle, the varnish seems a little lighter than the actual phosphor that has no vanish present.
Nearly 99% of variations come from booklet panes, they can consist of bands set either left or right, in different widths. Also variations of centre bands come in various widths including settings to the left or right of centre. Check for 8 mm & 4 mm bands, these are normally found on stamps from vending machine booklets.
Phosphor bars:
These are found on stamps from many booklet panes . They consist of short bands bottom, short bands at the top, inset to the left or right of the perforations. Short bands both top and bottom. Two band, centre band and side band varieties are catalogued, all are collectables.
Inset Bands:
Inset refers to bands that are inset from the perforations. Most of the inset bands are found from booklet pane material and recent sheet printings by De La Rue . Three types exist, these are inset left, inset right or inset from both left and right .
Short bands:
These are either short from the perforations, top or bottom ( it should be noted that combinations of inset and short bands also exist )
Notched Bands :
These can be obtained from mixed value and prestige booklet panes, they consist of small notches in the top or bottom of the band. Four types are catalogued. Notched either top left, top right, bottom left or bottom right. It should also be noted that stamps exist with combinations of short, inset and notched bands. These can be very desirable stamps and are overlooked by a lot of collectors, they will no doubt be rarities of the near future.
Douglas G.A.Myall. Deegam Publications has devised and written a reference system for these stamps, The Deegam SIN System. Douglas has kindly given his permission for these to be reproduced on my web site . http://www.gbmachins.co.uk
Phosphor front and back :
Phosphor is normally applied to the face of the stamp over the printed image, when phosphor is also found on the reverse of the stamp, this has been applied in error. Some experts claim that wet ink has been transferred from one sheet to another during the stacking process. Another reason has been suggested that a printing roller has picked up ink by mistake and deposited it to the rear of the sheets.
Phosphor under ink :
Some stamps have a milky appearance, this is caused by the phosphor being printed first, then the stamp image printed over the top. The best way to test for these variations is is to hold the stamp up to the light, the bands will appear milky and lighter than the none phosphor area.
Sunday, 11 February 2007
Detecting Phosphors & UV Lamps
Pete Raymond recently wrote to me and asked about UV Lamps. Thanks Pete, I will see if I can answer your questions in plain English as this is a difficult subject to write about.
What is a UV lamp?
What is the best type to purchase ?
Where can I obtain one?
Ultra Violet Lamps are an essential piece of equipment for serious philatelists, especially if you are serious about collecting Machins. Two of the main functions are to identify phosphor bands (both fluorescence, colour, phosphor type ) including degrees of phosphor application and after glow.
These are also an aid to deducing short and inset bands.
A secondary use is determining the paper types, : OCP, FCP, PCP, ACP etc, ( essential on later De la Rue Byfleet & Dunstable printings which through changes in paper suppliers during the earlier printings have various degrees of OBA in the paper makeup. (bright, intermediate and dull).
There are many types of UV on the market, manufactured by different makers and they come in an array of price bands.
The Machin collector will need at least two, a short wave and a long wave. Most specialists including my self have Four.
Two desk lamps, which I use in my home or office ( one short one long wave) run from mains electricty. These are ideal for home use as one can use them hands free enabling the user to combine a magnifier or microscope.
below is a desk lamp with a magnifier incorporated into the hood.
I have two portable battery hand held lamps, again one short wave and one long wave. I pop these into my bag when visiting shows, stamp shops and post offices. I have found many a bargain purchased at face value at the post office, and one or two at shows which have paid for these portable lamps ten fold.
Long wave, is for detection of fluorescence of stamps and phosphors which ranges over a Broad spectrum of long waves giving Peak efficiency at 366 nm and a reliable detection of luminescence.
Below is a image of a portable lamp.
They ( long wave ) are suitable for use on most areas with A or C phosphor. i.e. Canada, Mexico, Norway, France, Hong Kong, People’s Republic of China, Russia and Machin definitives of Great Britain after 1992.
Short wave: Ultra Violet (UV) lamps are used for the detection of phosphorescence on earlier stamps with B phosphor pre 1993 .
Short wave UV light gives Peak radiation efficiency at 254 nmFor assured phosphorescence detection of stamps from Great Britain, USA, Israel, Finland and older issues from Canada and Mexico.
It should be noted when using short wave lamps the user should not look directly into the light. To do so over a prolonged period so can be detrimental to ones eye sight.
Prices for hand battery held Long wave are usually in the range of £7 - £12 and for short wave £20 - £30.
Tip: place a peice of clear glass over your stamp to convert long wave light into short wave
Desk lamps are available from £10 - £25 for long wave and £ 30 - £45 for short wave.
These are available from most stamp dealers or you can pick them up direct from wholesalers(prinz or lighthouse) via the Internet.
If you have problems aquiring one let me know I can send you a scan of the product and price. ( postage & packing will apply) gbmachins@lineone.net
What is a UV lamp?
What is the best type to purchase ?
Where can I obtain one?
Ultra Violet Lamps are an essential piece of equipment for serious philatelists, especially if you are serious about collecting Machins. Two of the main functions are to identify phosphor bands (both fluorescence, colour, phosphor type ) including degrees of phosphor application and after glow.
These are also an aid to deducing short and inset bands.
A secondary use is determining the paper types, : OCP, FCP, PCP, ACP etc, ( essential on later De la Rue Byfleet & Dunstable printings which through changes in paper suppliers during the earlier printings have various degrees of OBA in the paper makeup. (bright, intermediate and dull).
There are many types of UV on the market, manufactured by different makers and they come in an array of price bands.
The Machin collector will need at least two, a short wave and a long wave. Most specialists including my self have Four.
Two desk lamps, which I use in my home or office ( one short one long wave) run from mains electricty. These are ideal for home use as one can use them hands free enabling the user to combine a magnifier or microscope.
below is a desk lamp with a magnifier incorporated into the hood.
I have two portable battery hand held lamps, again one short wave and one long wave. I pop these into my bag when visiting shows, stamp shops and post offices. I have found many a bargain purchased at face value at the post office, and one or two at shows which have paid for these portable lamps ten fold.Long wave, is for detection of fluorescence of stamps and phosphors which ranges over a Broad spectrum of long waves giving Peak efficiency at 366 nm and a reliable detection of luminescence.
Below is a image of a portable lamp.
They ( long wave ) are suitable for use on most areas with A or C phosphor. i.e. Canada, Mexico, Norway, France, Hong Kong, People’s Republic of China, Russia and Machin definitives of Great Britain after 1992.Short wave: Ultra Violet (UV) lamps are used for the detection of phosphorescence on earlier stamps with B phosphor pre 1993 .
Short wave UV light gives Peak radiation efficiency at 254 nmFor assured phosphorescence detection of stamps from Great Britain, USA, Israel, Finland and older issues from Canada and Mexico.
It should be noted when using short wave lamps the user should not look directly into the light. To do so over a prolonged period so can be detrimental to ones eye sight.
Prices for hand battery held Long wave are usually in the range of £7 - £12 and for short wave £20 - £30.
Tip: place a peice of clear glass over your stamp to convert long wave light into short wave
Desk lamps are available from £10 - £25 for long wave and £ 30 - £45 for short wave.
These are available from most stamp dealers or you can pick them up direct from wholesalers(prinz or lighthouse) via the Internet.
If you have problems aquiring one let me know I can send you a scan of the product and price. ( postage & packing will apply) gbmachins@lineone.net
Saturday, 10 February 2007
A Difficult Single
Difficult 10p Type 11
Type two values are designed with the newer Jeffery Mathews sleeker style numerals. Earlier numerals were more rounded.
Because of the ever increasing values and the size of the denominations set on the value tablet, the powers that be at the Royal Mail decided that a new set of value tablets would be drawn up. Jeffrey Matthew’s was chosen to design a sleeker set of numerals. Each value in turn was reprinted with this new ( narrower ) more modern style, later the denominations were also repositioned onto a uniformed grid in the bottom left hand corner.
The change started to take place on 30th March 1983 and carried on for a period of about 5 years. 1988 saw the change over completed right through the whole of the Machin range. Newer ungraduated colours were also added during this time to improve the look.
There are several 10p value Machins catalogued, but the variety SG X886 bi coloured 10p Greyish - Orange - Brown (Type 11) with 2 side phosphor bands is very difficult and is now catalogued as a single by Stanley Gibbons at £22.00 ( mint and used ) .
Printed in Photogravure by Harrison and Sons perforation 14¾ x 14 it is only available from the mixed setenant pane ( see below) incorporated in the Christian Heritage Prestige booklet issued 14 December 1984.
How do I verify this single stamp?
It has two side phosphor bands without ellipses . The value tablet is set high above the drapery .
When purchasing single stamps do not get confused with later stamps from vending and retail booklets . Type 1 10p values have the value set lower ( nearer the drapery) see image left.Check your booklets
If you have the Heritage booklet(s) and have just stored it (them) away without checking the panes it may just pay you to dig them out and inspect the contents.
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This stamp pane is also known with missing phosphor but you will hard pressed to find a single 10p non phosphor value .
It is usually collected setenant (vertical or horizontal) with a 17p as to prove provenience . A setenant pair with missing phosphor is catalogued at around the £2,000 mark. Or if your names Rothchild or Bill Gates and can afford it, a massive £8,000 - £10,000 for a complete pane.
Get checking , you may just have the deposit for that BMW lurking away in an album.
Wednesday, 7 February 2007
A Basic Collection of 400 Machins
Check it out here. http://mysite.verizon.net/ktk.lange/395Machins
Kurt the webmaster is still adding varieties to this list, next to be added (on his agenda) are the straight edged Machins from trimmed booklets.
Please give it a minute to load completely - Each and every stamp is different! (and if your browser allows it, like I.E. , use the "F-11" key for an even better full-screen mode)
This certainly makes non-Machin collectors understand why they are a fun series to work on (and in case you didn't know) multiply by at least 6 if you are into the sub-sub-varieties with inset, short bands, perfs, printing process, phosphors, coils, sheets, booklets etc,
OK I think you get the idea!
Kurt the webmaster is still adding varieties to this list, next to be added (on his agenda) are the straight edged Machins from trimmed booklets.
Please give it a minute to load completely - Each and every stamp is different! (and if your browser allows it, like I.E. , use the "F-11" key for an even better full-screen mode)
This certainly makes non-Machin collectors understand why they are a fun series to work on (and in case you didn't know) multiply by at least 6 if you are into the sub-sub-varieties with inset, short bands, perfs, printing process, phosphors, coils, sheets, booklets etc,
OK I think you get the idea!
Tuesday, 6 February 2007
Millennium Machin Variety
Collect Some Millennium Machin Varieties
This is the only Millennium Machin definitive Prestige Pane that was printed by the House of Questa. It originates from the Prestige Booklet " A life of A Century" commemorating the life of Queen Mother Issued on 04.08.2000.
The stamps are different from those Millennium Machins available from normal Questa retail booklets, having a bright blue fluor with a long wave afterglow.
The Ellipse is Type ( S ) resembling a sausage or cigar shape.
What is also noticeable to the trained eye, under magnification it can be determined that the panes are printed sideways left, all the Millennium retail booklet panes of 10 printed by Questa ( and Walsall ) were printed inverted. So these are unique and are listed in Machin catalogues as a specialised single.
The perforations are also different on this pane , 15 x 15 compared to 14 x 14 on the retail booklet stamps. Stamps from this pane also have a wider phosphor band 9.5 mm compared to 9 mm on the retail booklet stamps.
Look for error panes
Due to a phosphor shift stamps from positions 1, 4 and 7 are known with phosphor inset left from the perforations. These inset stamps are very desirable and will no doubt become rarities of the future.
This is the only Millennium Machin definitive Prestige Pane that was printed by the House of Questa. It originates from the Prestige Booklet " A life of A Century" commemorating the life of Queen Mother Issued on 04.08.2000.
The stamps are different from those Millennium Machins available from normal Questa retail booklets, having a bright blue fluor with a long wave afterglow.
The Ellipse is Type ( S ) resembling a sausage or cigar shape.
What is also noticeable to the trained eye, under magnification it can be determined that the panes are printed sideways left, all the Millennium retail booklet panes of 10 printed by Questa ( and Walsall ) were printed inverted. So these are unique and are listed in Machin catalogues as a specialised single.
The perforations are also different on this pane , 15 x 15 compared to 14 x 14 on the retail booklet stamps. Stamps from this pane also have a wider phosphor band 9.5 mm compared to 9 mm on the retail booklet stamps.
Look for error panes
Due to a phosphor shift stamps from positions 1, 4 and 7 are known with phosphor inset left from the perforations. These inset stamps are very desirable and will no doubt become rarities of the future.
Sunday, 4 February 2007
Alternative GB
This is your chance to obtain some quality Machin Stamp books at quality prices, just log on to my website and browse through the pages on alternative GB.
Even if you you do not wish to purchase, I can guarantee you a good read, this information ( as far as I know ) can not be found anywhere else on the web.
Just email me with your enquiry and I will get back to you as soon as possible.
http://www.gbmachins.co.uk/html/alternative_gb.html
Even if you you do not wish to purchase, I can guarantee you a good read, this information ( as far as I know ) can not be found anywhere else on the web.
Just email me with your enquiry and I will get back to you as soon as possible.
http://www.gbmachins.co.uk/html/alternative_gb.html
Sample Booklets
Firstly Thanks to Michael Dodd CDD Stamps ( his link is above ) for the mention and sending some of his readers to Machin Mania. Please pay him a visit. He has a very infomative blog, that reaches into the bowels of philataly and more.
His musings at the moment are of Post boxes. You will find it interesting I assure you. Also do not forget to recommend us to all your pals and aquaintances.
Its a funny old game !
I am not referring to Jimmy Greaves ( soccer pundit ) but the amount of Machin oddities that can be found. If you are collector of Bar Code booklets you may be familiar with sample booklets. If not I will try to show you what is what.
These samples are empty bar-code booklet covers ( only ) front and back and contain no stamps. They were supplied to retailers by the Royal Mail to display on shop counters in place of normal booklets which were being pilfered by unscrupulous customers.
The sample booklets were a futile attempt to combat the theft of stamps which was becoming a big problem for small shops.
At the offset when shops and supermarkets started selling stamps, in order to publicise the service to the public, Royal Mail originally supplied stamp display racks and advised retailers to show them in a prominent position for self service. People helped them selves alright, but did not pay for the stamps.
Most Stock, now that the public have been educated to the fact that retailers sell stamps, are kept out of site under the counter. So sample booklets were not needed any longer. Stamp collectors, being collectors aquired some. They eventually found their way onto the Philatelic market via trades and sales.
There are several different types of Sample booklets to collect. Easy to spot, each booklet has "SAMPLE" printed in the yellow strip to the right.
Shown below are 4 x 1st class and 4 x 2nd class.
Other Sample Booklet Types
Christmas, Greetings, advertising booklets, such as WH Smith and Sainsbury's are available to collect, also in addition to the above, 10 x 1st class and 10 x 2nd class are available from certain quarters. Machin stamp dealers often have these on offer, they are also sometimes listed on eBay or Yahoo auctions.
These booklet covers are reasonably cheap to acquire and add a nice touch to a booklet or Machin collection. They show something that is a little different from the norm and will eventually become a (rare) important part of Postal History.
Get yours now whist the going is good.
His musings at the moment are of Post boxes. You will find it interesting I assure you. Also do not forget to recommend us to all your pals and aquaintances.
Its a funny old game !
I am not referring to Jimmy Greaves ( soccer pundit ) but the amount of Machin oddities that can be found. If you are collector of Bar Code booklets you may be familiar with sample booklets. If not I will try to show you what is what.
These samples are empty bar-code booklet covers ( only ) front and back and contain no stamps. They were supplied to retailers by the Royal Mail to display on shop counters in place of normal booklets which were being pilfered by unscrupulous customers.
The sample booklets were a futile attempt to combat the theft of stamps which was becoming a big problem for small shops.
At the offset when shops and supermarkets started selling stamps, in order to publicise the service to the public, Royal Mail originally supplied stamp display racks and advised retailers to show them in a prominent position for self service. People helped them selves alright, but did not pay for the stamps.
Most Stock, now that the public have been educated to the fact that retailers sell stamps, are kept out of site under the counter. So sample booklets were not needed any longer. Stamp collectors, being collectors aquired some. They eventually found their way onto the Philatelic market via trades and sales.
There are several different types of Sample booklets to collect. Easy to spot, each booklet has "SAMPLE" printed in the yellow strip to the right.
Shown below are 4 x 1st class and 4 x 2nd class.
Other Sample Booklet Types
Christmas, Greetings, advertising booklets, such as WH Smith and Sainsbury's are available to collect, also in addition to the above, 10 x 1st class and 10 x 2nd class are available from certain quarters. Machin stamp dealers often have these on offer, they are also sometimes listed on eBay or Yahoo auctions.
These booklet covers are reasonably cheap to acquire and add a nice touch to a booklet or Machin collection. They show something that is a little different from the norm and will eventually become a (rare) important part of Postal History.
Get yours now whist the going is good.
Thursday, 1 February 2007
New Postal Rates April 2007
Due to the increase five new Machins will be issued on 27th March 2007.
16p ( pink ) 48p (rhododendron), 50p A new colour ( light grey) 54p (rust) and 78p (emerald Green)
The 46p Machin in old gold will be bought back into use ( this is not classed as a new stamp, but to specialists it will be a new variety, printed on the dull paper which is at present used by De La Rue for Dunstable printings.
New 48p and 78p country definitives will also be issued for all 4 regions of the UK.
16p ( pink ) 48p (rhododendron), 50p A new colour ( light grey) 54p (rust) and 78p (emerald Green)
The 46p Machin in old gold will be bought back into use ( this is not classed as a new stamp, but to specialists it will be a new variety, printed on the dull paper which is at present used by De La Rue for Dunstable printings.
New 48p and 78p country definitives will also be issued for all 4 regions of the UK.
40th Machin Anniversary Stamps and products are described below
40th Annivesary Of The Machin Definitive
From previous posts we all now know of the program from the Royal Mail (re produced here)
A Miniature Sheet (£2.68p ), First day cover (£3.63p), Uncut press sheet (£64.32 ) £1 Sheet definitive singles (£1 each).
Also if you collect them £1 cylinder blocks dot & no dot x 6, date blocks (left and right hand), Presentation Pack (£3.20 ), Prestige stamp book (£7.66p ) , Generic Smilers Sheet(£7.35 ), And last but not least, A medal Cover.
Taking each in turn we can now describe the contents of the products.
1/ Miniature Sheet:
Printed by De LA Rue Security Printers in gravure
A new £1 definitive in Ruby Red (replacing the current colour mauve ) set vertically setenant with the current £1 (or obsolete mauve) value. Two new special issue 1st class NVI stamps will sit each side (size 35mm 37mm). To the left shows a picture of Machin and caption Arnold Machin 1911 - 1999.
A Miniature Sheet (£2.68p ), First day cover (£3.63p), Uncut press sheet (£64.32 ) £1 Sheet definitive singles (£1 each).
Also if you collect them £1 cylinder blocks dot & no dot x 6, date blocks (left and right hand), Presentation Pack (£3.20 ), Prestige stamp book (£7.66p ) , Generic Smilers Sheet(£7.35 ), And last but not least, A medal Cover.
Taking each in turn we can now describe the contents of the products.
1/ Miniature Sheet:
Printed by De LA Rue Security Printers in gravure
A new £1 definitive in Ruby Red (replacing the current colour mauve ) set vertically setenant with the current £1 (or obsolete mauve) value. Two new special issue 1st class NVI stamps will sit each side (size 35mm 37mm). To the left shows a picture of Machin and caption Arnold Machin 1911 - 1999.
The second Special issue is also 1st class NVI and shows the first pre decimal 4d value from 1967. Both this and the Arnold machin stamps will be embossed so they stand out from the rest of the sheet. This will also be available in presentation packs.
2/ £1 Ruby Sheet stamps
Also printed by De La Rue in sheets of 200. dot and no dot sheets are available for those who collect cylinder blocks, also left and right date blocks.
3./ Prestige stamp book entitled The Machin The Making of a Masterpiece
This will consist of 4 separate stamp panes.>
Pane 1:
Machin definitives.
Top row 2p, 48p, 2p Middle row 46p, label showing the Queen wearing Tiara and 46p bottom row 2p, 48p, 2p 
Pane 2:
£1 ruby definitives x two set setenant vertical with a central label showing a Machin head as seen through a camera lens.
Pane 3:
Anniversary 1st special issues x 4 in two rows. Two Machin Portraits and two 4d pre decimals
Pane 4:
Definitive 1st & 2nd class stamps
Top row 1 x 1st class large PIP and 1 x 2nd class large PIP
Middle row 1 x 1st class standard size, a label showing Roland Hill, and 1 x 2nd class standard size.
Bottom row 1 x 1st class large PIP and 1 x 2nd class large PIP
First day covers, for all products no doubt and a generic smilers sheet showing 20 x Arnold Machin special issues, The setenant labels will show all pre decimal stamps issued from (1967 - 1970) These consist of 1d - £1
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